A Memorable Visit to Khanbarni Mata Mandir, Devar Kulgam

Today I had the honor of visiting the blessed, ancient temple of Khanbarni Mata Mandir at Devar, Kulgam. The temple of Khanbarni Mata Mandir is situated in the pristine nature of South Kashmir and is an important area of worship for the Kashmiri Pandit community, and I was fortunate enough to visit it. The visit had particular significance as it was a personal visit to my roots, albeit one made difficult through my upbringing in Jammu, as the knowledge of contemporary Kashmir ideology limits geographical knowledge at both the local and regional narratives.

Moreover, thankfully I was not solo on the spiritualigous pilgrimage, Salim my childhood friend and local of Tullinowpora, Danow Kulgam, was formally able to ensure the trip was achievable. Salim is a proud humble Kashmiri, and I thank him deeply, he ensured throughout my spiritual excursion I was safe and orientated since the region can only be described in terms of sensitivity due to safety concerns. Salim's locally based warmth of hospitality and knowledge, provided me with an experience of the true to essence of the place of Khanbarni Mata Mandir purely as the experience was that of peace, with the backdrop of outstanding surroundings; I managed to conclude the spiritual experience in Khanbarni Mata Mandir as a space of serenity, encircled in all directions by lush greenery and chinar trees with both remedial and restorative properties demonstrably seen with each step taken. Khanbanri with its well-made mandir and dense forests surroundings with side mountains, encourages worshippers to gather with their family and friends to pray for peace in the space become fertile ground for humanity to ask for blessings in an environment unmodified for efficiency.

This visit was much more than a pilgrimage - it was a journey into the heart of Kashmir. It brought memories alive, reestablished friendships, and caused me to reflect on the wonderful spiritual heritage of which we are a part. Many thanks to Salim to put this event together, and I hope a lot of others will be able to experience the beauty and sanctity of Khanbarni Mata Mandir.

Khanbarni Mata Mandir, also recognized as the shrine of Mata Tripur Sundari, is an important temple situated in the Akhal area of Devsar tehsil, Kulgam district in Jammu and Kashmir. Surrounded by pristine forests, Chinar trees, and entrancing views, it is indeed a place of worship experienced by devotees, and used as an example of neighborhood and cultural capital for those local to it. It sits around 10 km from Qazigund, thus easily accessible for devotees visiting the Khanbarni shrine, travelling through South Kashmir. From the Devsar Sumo Stand pilgrims and visitors can hire a Tata Sumo or Tavera for a direct journey to Khanbarni Mata Mandir. Although the trip is short, it is refreshing. As the Tata Sumo or Tavera traversed the narrow, rural roads, I experienced the gorgeousness of the Kashmir valley. I wished everyone could see the dense forests, open meadows, and original lush green supply surrounds you all the way there. The crisp mountain air, movement of trees along the route, and quick glimpses of simple village life made this journey more than just a spiritual journey. This beautiful drive is a peaceful prelude before we reach the temple, as well as a cultural and natural experience that highlights the richness of the area. For many devotees, the road to Khanbarni Mata is more than just a journey on a road, it is a part of the pilgrimage, a sacred journey of sorts, that feels benevolent, leading to blessings and peace.

Khanbarni Mata Temple, Prior to the exodus of Kashmiri Pandits in the early 1990s, the Temple used to host large and spiritual gatherings, particularly on the occasions of Zeshta Ashtami. The Zeshta Ashtami celebration, was a sacred day when Kashmiri Pandits would travel to the temple premises, and many Kashmiri Pandits from across Kulgam district and surrounding areas would gather there to participate in the ritual day. They would begin to arrive at the temple premises in the early morning, making the journey by foot in many cases over several miles, or in community groups, bringing with them offerings and participating in ritual ceremonies. A havan would be done in front of the main sanctum, with/and a ritually designated priest would chant mantras, and perform the havan and rituals in accordance with Kashmiri Shaivite and Shakta traditions.

The peak of the day, in a spiritual sense, was the Puran Ahuti, the ritual end to the havan with prayers for peace, health, and prosperity. The Prasad, usually in the form of Rice with Dal along with other vegetables like Kashmiri Dum allo, Nadru, Kadam (Saag) is served to all the devotees who came from other districts of Kashmir and Jammu. The whole atmosphere was perfumed by burning incense, with conch shells blown periodically and devotees chanting together, “Jai Mata Di.” It made for a scene of extraordinary spiritual energy and cultural unification. What made this celebration at Khanbarni Mata Mandir even more significant was the participation and warm hospitality from the local Muslim community. The Mata Kheer Bhawani Mela, of which Zeshta Ashtami is an important part, became an instance of syncretic tradition and brotherhood. The Muslim people from neighbouring villages, and villages like Akhal and Devsar, welcomed the Pandit devotees in the warmest fashion. It was not uncommon to see the Muslims showering flowers on the arriving yatris, symbolising mutual respect for one another's culture. The Muslims from the neighbourhood would even provide sweetened lemon water and refreshments to pilgrims, celebrating and acknowledging the spiritual journey of the pilgrims as they assumed their position in a culture of neighbourliness and respect for one another.

This atmosphere of harmony among various communities during religious events, like the Shishnag Yatra, was indicative of the once strong cultural ties in Kashmir, before the chapters of conflict, and displacement began. This temple was not only a site of devotion but one that allowed generations to foster their traditions and relationships across centuries. For the Kashmiri Pandits, this site conveyed a sense of shared identity - not only as a sacred space, but a place for memories, rituals of devotion, their ancestors, and generations to come. The temple's identity came into question as Kashmiri Pandits were displaced in 1990 during the onslaught of militancy and subsequent communal tensions. The temple, similar to many other pilgrim sites in the valley, no longer has a regular and continuous flow of pilgrims. The desertion of its sacred spaces, and silence that crept over the temple's, and other temples alike, courtyards feels significant, and is a remembrance of what was lost. Yet, for whatever reason, there is an awakening, and although slow, it is meaningful. Further, with all the considerations and effort of the administration and local Pandit organizations, in addition to the sustaining goodwill of the local Muslim community, the memory of pilgrimage and festivity is slowly being remembered. 

Zeshta Ashtami has returned once more, bringing back the magic of devotion and jubilation at Khanbarni Mata Mandir. The many pilgrims who frequented Khanbarni Mata Mandir have also expanded, and now many of those devotees are from beyond the valley and now established in Jammu or other parts of India. Despite their relocations, the pilgrims have not lost their inextricably link to this sacred place. Temporary structures are erected, commencing purifying the temple by cleaning and decorating, local authorities make arrangements for water, sanitation, and security and, of course, community kitchens are once again revived to begin to offer prasad and meals to all pilgrims. The landscape of Akhal with its immaculate surroundings and abundant Scotch pines continues to provide a comparable charm, and devotees often remark of a divine sense of calm that descends upon them when they step into the purified temple grounds, oblivious to their surroundings, the tranquillity of green, and sound of seedlings rustling in the tree-lines, mixed with hymns from unknown times, provide a spiritual atmosphere and affectingly moment. The narrative of Khanbarni Mata Mandir is not just the narrative of faith. It is a narrative of collective heritage and communities living well together and the resilience of culture against the erosion of existential challenges.

The temple once again ringing with the chants of “Mata Tripur Sundari ki Jai” brings faith that Kashmir’s tradition of composite culture and spiritual tolerance can be revived and sustained. The temple remains a living embodiment of that faith. Today, the temple complex houses not just the sanctum of Mata Tripur Sundari, but also an active police station, so that peace and safety can be assured to pilgrims and devotees alike. The administration has established elaborate safety measures available to pilgrims afforded by the historically sensitive context of the region. Peace has to be forced during religious celebrations of any kind in Kashmir. Within the temple precinct, there are beautiful parks stretching shaded by its magnificent Chinar trees, where pilgrims sit in quiet space, and eat prasad after the religious rites have been observed. These tranquil spaces create the opportunities for devotee-pilgrims to ponder, to meditate, and to celebrate what the goddess has bestowed upon them.

The revival and reestablishment of pilgrimage and continuing collaboration between the other communities is evidence that Kashmir can still have hope. The Khanbarni Mata Mandir has a theological legacy, a sacred history, and beautiful and scenic locations to create hope, harmony, and devotion that resonates, and reverberates, with the past, and echoes the many faiths of what has come and what continues to return.

(Vivek Koul)