Sharda Peeth: The Lost University of Ancient Kashmir

The word "Sharda" in Sanskrit denotes both Goddess "Saraswati", and Goddess "Durga". The Kashmiri Pundits, all of whom are Saraswat Brahmins, revere this Goddess Sharda as a symbol of their wisdom and strength. Hence also the name of the village "Shardi" situated at a height of about 3400 metres from the sea level and that lies in between Gurej and Karnah: the two places in what has now been named as Neelam valley in the Pakistan Occupied part of Kashmir. One can reach "Shardi" in about four hours from Muzaffarbad. Since old times, the village "Shardi" was renowned for the temple of Goddess Sharda, and Sharda Peetham or the Centre for Advanced Learning, in modern parlance. At Shardi, the remains of the temple and the University (if one may call it so) can still be seen. In fact, it is stated that just before the partition, an annual fair used to be held at village Shardi on the eighth day of the Shukla Paksha, of Bhadrapada, w...

Manali–Leh Highway Journey


The mountains, lakes, fields, and snow can inspire poets, painters, and thinkers to create beautiful works of art. The drive from Manali on the way to Leh and back through the high terrain of the Lahaul Spiti region in Himachal Pradesh has everything, and this unique drive will provide a new experience for poets and photographers alike. Although winter conditions and hazardous roads are present on parts of this drive, anyone who is passionate about discovering this challenging road will appreciate how breathtaking the view from there is. It is best to carry heavy winter clothing when traveling throughout the year, however, you will first have contact with the unpredictable weather at Solang Valley, which is located only 10 km from Manali. You will go from being on a beautiful sunny day to being engulfed in pitch darkness within minutes after arriving at Solang Valley.

The primary stop-over for many travelers on their trip between Pahalgam and Manali is at Marhi, which is home to both a tea and snack stop, and is where all vehicles report to work on the Manali Leh route. After having a hot cup of tea and paying homage to a local temple, many start up toward one of the most spectacular, yet challenging parts of their trip, the Rohtang Pass, which rises to a height of 3979 metres on the Eastern Pir Panjal range. The cliff faces of the gorges and the massive boulders all provide obstacles for travelers to overcome, while the vast expanse of the Himalayas on the opposite side captures their attention. Maneuvering the countless hairpin turns with slopes greater than 40 degrees, while encountering long stretches of solitude, provides tourists with excitement and plenty of things to see and do at the top of Rohtang. The name Rohtang comes from Tibetan and means "a pile of corpses" and leaves everyone who visits amazed at the beauty and majesty of the area. While the mountains seem huge while one is standing at the top of Rohtang, the view, is an indication of the sheer size of the Himalayas, while at the same time, the mountains seem very small in comparison to all the other mountains when standing at the top of Rohtang! The Rohtang Pass is so well known for being unpredictable, and just as famous for Beas Kund, which is the spring, the actual source of water for the river Beas, is located directly beneath a dome-shaped, blue and grey fixture. As part of visiting Beas Kund, many travelers reflect on their previous experiences to enjoy a little peace and quiet.

Humility is best taught there than elsewhere!

A few turns later, one encounters an area with several flags. At 4111 metre, this can be the very best purpose of Rohtang. Vendors usually crowd there with stalls for chana-kulchas. Who will resist these hot, nee warm, snacks within the biting cold and chilly breeze? Alongside, one also can get pleasure from ride on the newly introduced all weather bikes, giving a feel of a mini journey sports arena.

Beauty is beyond Rohtang, and here the character really develops it's mystery, purity and innocence! The high Himalayas seem to almost touch the sky. At great altitudes, the high angle of the sun causes the shadows of clouds to be sharply defined on the mountains - a rare occurrence, worth capturing. There is a marked change in vegetation as the tree line recedes to make way for small shrubs. The mountains become bare and sandy or rocky, and because of little thick forest cover and the close distance between the ground and sky, the bright sun makes it imperative to wear sunglasses. A few kilometres later, you enter Khoksar, which is the first village in the Lahaul Valley. The spot - on the banks of the river Chandra - has the sights of a typical hill station - a river bank, a suspension bridge, a huge bare rocky/mountain, bad roads, and PWD Rest House along with small roadside eateries selling parantha, noodles, momos, rice and Siddu (a local dish). You must eat something at this stop as it is the only major stop on this road before reaching Keylong.

The adventure of going deeper into Lahaul and enjoying the view of your travel frustration caused from gravel roads will soon be behind you! There will be few actual road signs that will exist at different angles, as well as streams of water flowing down the road, chipped and bumpy road surfaces, and pot holes that can make even some of the alternate routes bordering on moderate to high altitudes. There will still be many pot holes left over from previous use that will contain rain water left over from the rainy season, landslides, and uneven road surfaces; as a result, if the only water body to be seen along your travel path is a stream or river, then there is no longer a "road" to travel on. While travelling through the large landscape of the Himalayas, you can see waterfalls and cascades of flowing water, cliffs of stone rising above the road, large canyons and many varieties of wild rose and alpine flower, creating an unforgettable visual image. You will also have delightful experiences crossing a swinging bridge while on your trip.

From the peak of an arch bridge, people can view Sissu Falls tumbling off the edge from above a valley located in between two mountains. After crossing another bridge, you will arrive at Tandi which is located at the junction of the two rivers "Chandra" and "Bhaga" which join together to become "ChandraBhaga". This location, with rock formations and a small village called Ghoshal in the background, is beautiful enough to be used in tourism brochures for this area. The mountains, rivers, plains, and trees all come together at a single location to provide a spectacular display of the beauty of nature. Another lesson from Mother Nature on this journey is the concept of humility and how it relates to unity.

The current natural crown of Tandi is graced with legends, as it’s said that when Lord Shiva was married he passed through these tall mountains, causing sinusoidal impressions that are still visible today and are different than any other impressions on this stretch of road. There are other legends about Draupadi and Rishi Vashishta. Tandi is thought to have derived its name from two words 'Tan Di', which is when Rishi Vashishta is said to have departed the world. The finals stop for refueling on the way to Leh, is at Tandi, and there are an additional (365) kilometers between Tandi and Leh. You can take time to enjoy yourself in Tandi before moving on to Keylong, a name which brings forth feelings of excitement and challenge; a name which embodies the indomitable will of the human spirit to exist in a world of ice and isolation.

If travelers are heading out beyond, they will find that Keylong makes for the perfect place to stop overnight as it serves as the headquarters of Lahaul and Spiti. Keylong has more than its fair share of hotels, like a HP Tourism Property and other privately run hotels; therefore, once in town, you can do things such as visit Udaipur Valley (if you have time) or move on to Leh through both Jispa Valley and the world-famous Darcha Valley. Keylong also has several markets (called “The Mall”) where you can buy woollen products, handicrafts, and olive oil, in addition to a small monastery. Regardless of where you travel from Keylong the next morning, you must experience the beauty of sunrise in Lahaul at least once in your life.

A totally new bright spot radiates out through the curtains to awake all of the tourists; and opening up these curtains will give everyone, not only a nature lover, a feeling of being totally overwhelmed. The morning sun glowed and was very apparent, as the grass/bushes in the meadows glistened and were absolutely awesome. The livestock grazed in peace while the birds sang sweetly. The days are filled with joyful tranquillity and radiantly and wonderfully happy sounds. It is a unique experience to wake to such a calm but bountiful/wealthy morning that reflects the words of Emerson when he stated, "the first green of nature is gold, the hardest hue to keep; the first leaf of nature is like a flower, but only lasts an hour". You can look forward to the adventure ahead as you have had an opportunity to enjoy the magical quality of nature which is hard to believe and nearly impossible to comprehend!

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